Saturday, March 25, 2006

It’s the little things. I’m in Albania for my fourth time in about two years….It’s nice to be back to a city I know reasonably well and feel comfortable visiting. I’m here conducting audience research for Vizion Plus television, a privately-owned and independent television station that covers most of the country. (Albania shares a common land border with Montenegro….essentially to the southeast. Although I flew here from the U.S., I will return to Montenegro by car.) We’re doing a second audience survey of television viewers to determine what the viewers think about the station’s programming and perhaps generate some information that will help in the station’s ad sales efforts.

I’ve seen not only familiar faces at the station but even on the streets. There’s a spot near my hotel where I normally catch a taxi. The same group of drivers occupies the location. My first day, when I was ready to pay the driver who took me to Vizion Plus, I offered him 500 Leke—about $5—which is about right amount a foreigner should pay for the trip. He seemed to want just a little more so I added another 100. He was very pleased. The next morning, he again took me to the station. I handed him 600 Leke—same fare as the day before—but he would only take 500. And, he thanked me before I could thank him.

I walked back from the station to my hotel last night. I remembered the walk taking about 25-30 minutes. Maybe I walked slower….it took about 40 minutes. Oh, electricity shortages are back. I did slow down a little when the power went out and I only had car headlights to light my way for part of the walk. I had planned to leave with enough daylight to see but conversations ran a little long at the station. I don’t worry about being a crime victim when I walk—even in the dark. I worry about stepping into a drain with no cover or a utility access point with a missing cover. I watched a driver in an old Mercedes back his right rear tire straight into a drain, with missing cover. A group of passersby helped lift/push his car out of the hole.

When I was here in November, Albania had been experiencing electricity shortages for nearly three months. It’s hard for me to know exactly who was to blame for the shortages but essentially, after a presidential election, the outgoing party and new party did not communicate well enough to ensure that contracts were signed to guarantee the import of enough electricity. The current shortages are part of an effort by government to make people pay their power bills. Gradually, the electric utility will suspend service to specific customers. Right now, they cut power everywhere to remind people to pay. The good news is that once side of the street may lose power but the other side will keep it. After an hour or two, the roles reverse.

Speaking of a mess: the streets are a mess from rains, heavy traffic and little road maintenance. Potholes fill many major intersections. There are streets that have been widened and repaved and look as good as city streets in the U.S. It’s an interesting contrast….the past, represented by pothole filled streets….the future represented by newly paved streets and sidewalks.

Mr. Chicken, my favorite fast food place, is still in business. Bird flu apparently has not driven off customers. I haven’t been there yet but probably will go there tonight or maybe Sunday for lunch.

When I walk back to the hotel, it’s a reality check as to the strength of the economy and quality of life. I walk by shops that are still in business after two years. I see some that have closed. I get an up-close and personal look at people on the streets and try to judge their emotional state. Most of the taxi drivers here speak very little English. In other places I’ve been, I find taxi drivers to be full of insights about the economy, politics and life. I miss being able to ask questions of the drivers. The walk helps replace that.

It is Saturday afternoon, shortly past four, as I write this. Most station personnel work six days a week but leave by 3 or 4 on Saturday. I think I will leave also. There’s a gelato place I want to visit on the way back to the hotel.

More later tonight, including some photos.

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